The Beginner's Guide to Retinol
Retinoid is the umbrella term for all the chemical compounds of vitamin A. Retinol is a type of retinoid. And there are several other forms and derivatives that fall under the retinoid class. Here’s a comprehensive guide about retinol for beginners, including its benefits, different types of retinol you can buy and what you should watch out for before incorporating it into your routine.
What is retinol?
Retinol is the topical form of vitamin A. Retinoic acid (or Retin-A) is the gold standard of vitamin A for anti-aging. The prescription-strength retinol (aka retinoic acid) is Tretinoin, the most bio-available form of retinol on the market.
Retinol, on the other hand, isn’t as potent as Tretinoin. It’s better for long-term use because your skin has to convert retinol to retinaldehyde (retinal), and then to retinoic acid. While Tretinoin doesn’t require any conversion, retinol is a two-step process. And unlike Tretinoin, which is a drug and regulated by the FDA, retinol doesn’t need FDA approval because it’s categorized as a cosmetic. That means it’s more readily available, so you can skip the trip to the dermatologist and you don’t need a prescription.
Retinol benefits
Retinol has an abundant of skincare benefits including:
Boosts collagen, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
Removes sun damaged skin cells
Improves sun spots
Removes hyperpigmentation
Reduce pre-skin cancer cells
Helps with oiliness
Your skin naturally produces retinoic acid. Yes, it’s a chemical. Yes, it’s incredibly effective. Yes, it may irritate your skin. So hard-core clean beauty, anti-chemical, all-natural gurus may not readily accept retinol in their routines.
Retinol side effects
When adding retinol to your skincare routine, you may experience the following side effects:
Dryness
Rash
Inflammation or irritated skin
Flakiness
Breakouts
These symptoms are known as “the purge” phase, which can last for up to six weeks. As your skin gets accustomed to retinol, it brings up all the nasty, icky stuff, such as oil, debris and dead skin cells hiding under your skin and in your pores.
And retinol causes your skin’s cycle to speed up or increase cell turnover. That means you get new skin faster, which can also mean dryness and old skin cells flaking off. But don’t give up! Skin generally takes about 28 days to renew. So if you want to see results, persevere through the purge, and try to stick with your routine for at least a month.
Over-the-counter retinol and derivatives
The market is saturated with retinol products. Companies have even experimented with other forms of retinol by messing with its chemistry to create derivatives. Here are a few popular retinol favorites:
The Ordinary retinol Line
Best for: Beginners
What to watch out for: Not as much clinical data.
The Ordinary has six retinoid products to choose from:
Granactive retinoid. The active ingredient in its granactive retinoid line is hydroxypinacolone retinoate or HPR, which is an ester of retinoic acid. It’s supposed to be an encapsulated, more stable form of retinol. That means the retinol is time-released and should be less irritating on the skin.
Retinol in Squalane. Choose from a 0.2%, 0.5% or 1% pure retinol potency in Squalane, a botanical lipid that’s great for moisturizing your skin. I personally use The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane in my nighttime routine.
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerative Cream
Best for: Moisturizing
What to watch out for: May experience a tingling or slightly stinging feeling during application.
You can use this patented formula just about anywhere on your body. And this little jar packs a punch with the added ingredient of Myrtus communes leaf extract, which helps deliver faster and more significant anti-aging results, according to an 8-week, double-blind clinical study.
Cerave Resurfacing Retinol Serum
Best for: Redness and inflammation
What to watch out for: Pricier than the Ordinary
While Cerave doesn’t list the percentage of retinol in its formula, this product is a fan favorite for a reason. Cerave is known for restoring and protecting the skin’s natural barrier, so they make sure it won’t strip your skin. And it’s formulated with niacinamide to help calm the skin and licorice root extract to brighten, making it a popular option for people with rosacea.
Adapalene gel
Best for: Acne
What to watch out for: Less irritating than retinoic acid, but still drying.
Once upon a time you could only get Adapalene gel by prescription. But it’s now being sold over-the-counter. Adapalene is a naphthoic acid derivative or retinoid analogue. While it was originally designed to treat acne, it also has incredible anti-aging benefits. And your skin doesn’t need to activate or convert it.
Avene Retrinal 0.1 Intensive Cream
Best for: Crow’s feet around the eyes
What to watch out for: Expensive
This is a step up from retinol because you’re starting with retinaldehyde. So instead of a 2-step oxidation conversion process with retinol, your skin only needs to convert this once. And you’ll get a slow-release of vitamin A in a moisturizing formula, making it less irritating on the skin and more tolerable on sensitive areas close to the eyes.
Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil
Best for: Acne and brightening
What to watch out for: Expensive
The Dermalogica Retinol Clearing Oil has the active ingredient 0.03% Retinyl Propionate, a retinol ester. It’s also formulated with 2% salicylic acid to reduce breakouts and a series of antioxidant-rich photoactive lipids to promote skin radiance.
5 skincare tips when using retinol
Here are 5 tips to get the most out of your retinol regimen:
Use retinol at night and apply SPF in the morning. While you should always apply SPF to prevent premature skin aging, you should be extra vigilant to apply SPF in the morning when using retinol. Retinoids can make you more susceptible to sun damage and break down in the sun, making it the most effective at night.
Apply after washing. Be sure to remove all traces of makeup and start with a clean canvas before using retinol. To minimize irritation, you can apply a moisturizer after cleansing. Make sure it’s fully absorbed and dry before applying retinol right before bed.
Build your tolerance. More isn’t always better. Since retinol can be extremely irritating for the skin, start with a lower dose and work your way up.
You don’t need to use it every day. Let your skin adjust by only apply it one to two times a week. You can gradually increase frequency as long as you don’t see any adverse reactions, such as peeling or dryness.
Skip the retinol body wash and face cleansers. Retinol needs to bind with your skin’s retinoid receptors to be effective. Since you only leave body washes and facial cleansers on your skin for a few minutes (sometimes less) before washing it off, it won’t be effective as an anti-aging treatment.
What can you pair with retinol?
It’s always a good idea to know what active ingredients play well with others.
Retinol and niacinamide. Yes! And the Cerave Resurfacing Retinol Serum is a good example that they good well together.
Retinol with vitamin C. While you can use these in the same routine, retinol is best used at night, and vitamin C is ideally reserved for the morning.
Retinol and AHA. These actives can counteract each other and irritate your skin. You’re better off using them on different nights. And remember, you don’t have to apply retinol every day to see results.
Retinol and glycolic acid. Yes, but it may be too drying on your skin.
Retinol and salicylic acid. Yes, but it may experience some irritation and redness. It may be better to go with a pre-existing formula, such as Dermalogica Retinol Acne Clearing Oil that has other soothing ingredients to minimize the negative side effects.
Should you use retinol during pregnancy or if you’re breastfeeding?
According to the FDA, Tretinoin or Retin-A is a Category C drug, which means it could be a danger to the embryo. So it may also be best to avoid the weaker, less potent forms of retinol as well.
As for breastfeeding, absorption of topical retinol products are usually minimal, which means it should be safe while breastfeeding. But some doctors bundle the dangers of retinol during pregnancy with breastfeeding out of the abundance of caution and advise against it. When in doubt about using retinol when pregnancy or breastfeeding, ask your healthcare provider.
3 retinol alternatives
If retinol is too intimidating or irritating for you, consider a few anti-aging retinol alternatives. And you might even be able to use one while pregnant or breastfeeding. As always, speak to your doctor first.
Bakuchiol. Obtained from babchi seeds, bakuchiol has been shown to reduce wrinkles and increase skin firmness. And since it’s a hydrator, it’s much less irritating on the skin. I enjoy the slight tightening sensation from the Burt’s Bees Renewal Firming Moisturizing Cream.
Rosehip seed oil. Derived from the seeds of rose bushes, this oil is rich in vitamins, antioxidants and fatty acids. But more importantly, it’s high in vitamin A, which is what we’re all after, isn’t it? A good option is Good Molecules Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil.
Peptides. Proven to boost collagen production and elastin, peptides can lift and firm the skin. A peptide fan favorite is the Derma E Advanced Peptide and Collagen Serum, which has Matrixyl synthe'6, a multi-peptide designed to support healthy collagen and ArgirelineNP to help smooth fine lines.
More anti-aging tips
We’re not going to tell you to stop smiling, laughing and frowning to prevent wrinkles — because that would be ridiculous. But we also have a pet peeve towards young influencers that say they “like their little wrinkles because it shows that they’ve lived, laughed, and loved.”
Let’s be real, while we should all respect and love who we are, if we asked our 85-year-old grandma if she would rather keep her wrinkled filled skin that shows her experience, or revert back to her 20-year-old skin, we all know what she’d pick.
So unless you strive to look 85 filled with wrinkles and wisdom, here are additional tips to slow the aging process — without facelifts and Botox of course.
Silk pillowcase. Cotton pillowcases can give you “crush wrinkles” — friction that causes creases in the skin. Silk, on the other hand, is a smooth surface, which can prevent wrinkles and skin trauma. Plus, it makes your hair less frizzy and prevents hair breakage. (Here’s my favorite 100% silk pillowcase. I literally have 6 pairs in rotation in my home.)
Avoid tugging. Prevent wrinkles by being gentle with your skin. Remember, wrinkles form when your skin loses elasticity. So don’t rub, pull, or drag your skin when removing makeup or washing your face so it doesn’t have to work as hard to bounce back. And it’s just best not to touch your face whenever you can help it.
Wear SPF. Always protect your skin from the sun whether or not you use retinol. Ultraviolent rays can cause premature skin aging, as well as skin cancer and sun spots. It’s a good habit to wear SPF every day — even when it’s winter or cloudy outside. (This is my favorite face sunscreen that performs well under makeup.) And load up on sunblock when you’re out and about, especially at the beach.
Hydrate. Wrinkles form more easily when your skin is dehydrated. Plump it up by drinking enough water and make sure to moisturize often. (I use this glass water bottle with time marker reminders to make sure I stay hydrated during the day. And I use The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid to keep my skin nice and plump, which is a key molecule to prevent skin aging.